Review: ‘Susanne Bartsch: On Top’

Susanne Bartsch: On Top
(USA, 84 min.)
Dir. Anthony&Alex
Programme: Nightvision (Programme: Nightvision)

 

Hot Docs’ team of programmers have chosen a large number of character portraits this year—more than in previous editions of the festival. While the focus may illustrate a trend in production, audience interest, or both, it also amplifies the virtues and weaknesses of that genre of documentaries. The strength of character portrait docs generally relies on two elements: the charisma of the subject and the filmmaker’s ability to extend the profile of a single character into a film of greater meaning. The excellent Susanne Bartsch: On Top stands out in the field of first person p.o.v. docs because it has both a great character and a resonant story that situates the subject’s narrative within a larger canvas. This doc about the queen of New York nightlife is a roaringly good time and an empowering story of LGBTQ rights.

If Bette Davis’s attitude was to go out with her heels on while still in action, then Susanne Bartsch’s philosophy is to go out with the biggest, wildest pair of eyelashes one can find while at the centre of the biggest, wildest party New York has ever seen. On Top profiles the long-time Hotel Chelsea resident and reigning Manhattan party queen who still has the spunk and energy needed for a wild bash. Bartsch is a precursor to Lady Gaga, Cher and other party divas who know how to make heads turn with the right “look.” Every appearance Bartsch makes is an utter transformation behind heavy make-up, false eyelashes, eccentric wigs, and bright, vibrant garments. Her appearance is a kind of performance art that has helped her gain attention in the scene and establish herself as one of its most vivacious fixtures.

The Switzerland-born Bartsch recalls her experience of bringing a little life back to the party in the Big Apple when the indie/underground scene faded out with Andy Warhol. She tells how her interest in high fashion (outrageously bright and loud threads) inspired her to import all the hottest trends from the London scene to New York. By opening her boutique, Bartsch established a successful business and a legacy of taking pride in being and looking openly fabulous.

Bartsch herself is heterosexual, but she’s also a flamboyantly gay character with infectious joie de vivre. As the camera observes her testing a variety of looks, one sees how she’s one of those people who simply lights up a room with life and energy. Bartsch is fun and peppy as directing duo Anthony&Alex captures her while she organises and attends parties and humorously commands a room with gaiety and authority. She also readies an exhibit for New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology. The show gives the film easy access to Bartsch’s past as she mines her voluminous wardrobe, oversees the maquillage of mannequins, and tells the stories behind her many looks and hairdos, like her wild beehive of a wedding veil that gives the film a gateway to fruitful interviews with her son and her ex-husband (with whom still still has a friendly relationship).

The documentary is especially strong when Bartsch poignantly recalls the friends she lost with the onset of AIDS and the cultural crisis that followed. Susanne Bartsch: On Top looks at how the conservatism of the Reagan years pushed the queer community further past the margins and created stigma rather than support. Bartsch tells of how taking the pulse of this community let her see how much the system was failing her friends and clients. The doc shows the socialite harness her event planning skills and nightlife savvy into one big philanthropic bash. 

Susanne Bartsch: On Top extends Bartsch’s story to the community that thrives on her parties. The doc looks at Bartsch’s role in New York’s queer community as residents from all walks of life congregate, mingle, let loose, and thrive in each other’s company. The story of her success is also the story of coming out in America. Her outlandish ensembles and, more significantly, the confidence with which she wears them, invites an atmosphere of openness and acceptance. 

On Top sees numerous fixtures from the New York nightlife scene discuss their comfort in coming out with the subculture of drag and performance that Bartsch’s parties invite. The doc lets each of these characters discuss the comforts of finding the right layer of skin into which one may find one’s best self. The film extends the conversation to heterosexuals like Bartsch, including one married couple, who love to dress in drag or make themselves look extravagantly fabulous. Susanne Bartsch: On Top dissolves binaries of gender in an inclusive portrait that encourages audiences to be loud and proud.

Whether it’s an escape or a proud expression of living without fear, nightlife as depicted in this powerful doc, is a necessary alternative to the suffocating attitudes of daytime. What seems like frivolity and excess for some affords a life preserver for others. As far as character portraits go, Susanne Bartsch: On Top is one of the most fabulous docs at this year’s festival.

Source: http://povmagazine.com/articles/view/revie...

Susanne Bartsch: On Top

New York City has changed a lot over the last 30 years, but Susanne Bartsch has remained a continuous force in its queer nightlife. This loving portrait largely cedes the narrative to the loquacious Swiss-born party promoter, fashion muse and long-time Chelsea Hotel resident, who is launching a new party and prepping a retrospective for the Fashion Institute of Technology when duo Anthony&Alex catch up with her. 

Club scene fixtures Michael Musto, Amanda Lepore and Kenny Kenny pop up, as does RuPaul (a regular at Bartsch's 80s parties), while Bartsch's son and hardbody husband give more personal insight. We learn about her influence on the fashion world and her star-studded 1989 AIDS fundraiser, Love Ball, gets a lengthy sequence.

But as archival dance-floor footage blends into the present day, it becomes apparent that her relevance is not just about ambition, but that the safe space she provides to explore sexuality and gender is still so needed.

Source: https://nowtoronto.com/movies/hot-docs-201...

Why Does the New Rita Repulsa Look So Much Like Susanne Bartsch?

Power Rangers is the latest franchise to come out shiny and new from Hollywood's reboot factory. The big screen adaptation of the ultimate '90s kid TV show hits theaters this weekend. Of course, one of the curious pleasures of any reboot, whether one actually sees it or not, is seeing how costume designers rework iconic characters' looks with a new edge and a blockbuster budget.

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Vogue Italia: Yes. It’s me… Susanne Bartsch

Fin da piccola, in Svizzera, dove sono nata e cresciuta, amavo “vestirmi” con abiti vintage, in particolare degli anni Venti e Trenta, che trovavo nei negozi di seconda mano. Ecco perché quando arrivai a Londra, alla fine degli anni Settanta, mi trovavo perfettamente a mio agio nella scena New Romantic, e tutti i suoi protagonisti – da Boy George agli Spandau Ballet – erano miei amici. Amo la musica, amo la moda e amo ballare ...

Source: http://www.vogue.it/magazine/fashion-stori...

Susanne Bartsch Samsung Capitol Couture

MATTE profiled trailblazing fashion icon and creative director Susanne Bartsch as she designed and styled three irreverent looks for The Hunger Games' Capitol Couture Magazine.

Photographer Steven Klein was on hand to capture Susanne's designs worn by supermodel Hannah Davis; check out a preview of our feature above and view the full three-minute piece on the Samsung+ app on Galaxy phones. 

Source: http://www.matte-finish.com/news/2015/12/1...

VICE: Get to Know Suzanne Bartsch, the Snazziest Dresser in New York Club History

It was an age of excess, and at the center of it all was a party promoter named Susanne Bartsch. For each of her parties—from her monthly parties at venerable Midtown club Copa in the late 80s to her annual Halloween extravaganzas at Palladium in the 90s—the tall, thin, angular Swiss-born Bartsch would spend hours assembling a unique look. Her outfits—which invariably included an outsized headdress, makeup, corseted body armor, and matching shoes—would combine threads from her designer friends with bits of so-called "found fashion" she discovered lying around ...

Source: https://thump.vice.com/en_ca/article/get-t...

Too Much Love Mag: “Express yourself, be yourself”

Susanne Bartsch is a well known muse for fashion designers and makeup artists. Born in Switzerland she moved to swinging London as a teenager, and ended up in New York in 1981. Bartsch opened a boutique in Soho while still on a tourist visa, something that today is unthinkable. She was also one of the first New York retailers to import British designers to the United States ...

Source: http://toomuchlovemag.com/2015/11/express-...

New York Times: How Women Have Always Ruled the Night Life

Nightlife without women would be like a meal without a table, plates, and utensils. A traditionally male dominated field, club life has been sparked by female club owners, promoters and “It girls” who liven up the scene with glamour, smarts, and a sense of how to take a party to the next level. While thuggish types sit in a back room and count the money, it’s often the ladies who plant themselves in the key lighting and make an event worth going to in the first place ...

Source: How Women Have Always Ruled the Night Life

Crave: Exhibit | Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch

“It’s too early in the morning to wear lashes,” Susanne Bartsch says as she greets the press for the preview of Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch, now on view at The Museum at FIT, New York, through December 5, 2015. The exhibition features approximately 80 looks from Bartsch’s personal collection of clothing, accessories, and hair that have made her the reigning queen of New York nightlife for over three decades ...

Source: http://www.craveonline.com/art/912669-exhi...

Style Curated: Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch @ FIT Museum

With guest-list in hand, a lifelike replica of Susanne Bartsch leads a line of mannequins en maquillage, greeting guests at an alley-like entrance to the Museum at FIT's Fashion Underground exhibit. Behind closed doors, black walls, disco balls and 80+ designer-clad divas pay tribute to the 'Queen of NYC Nightlife' in a club-themed showcase of clothing as a means of transformation. From her first party in 1986 to the weekly productions almost 30 years later, Susanna Bartsch continues to unite the creatively energetic in a flamboyant ecosystem of self-expression. Keep reading for a look into the exhibit (and some great ideas for Halloween!) ...

Source: http://stylecurated.blogspot.com/2015/10/f...

Dazed: The 80s Icon Who United Club Kids and Catwalk

“There was the uptown and the downtown, the gays, the straights, socialites, Brazilian dancers, muscle men... We had it all!” Talking to Susanne Bartsch is like scrolling through Instagram photos of the best party you’ll never attend ­– you’re just asking for FOMO. The original ringmaster of after-dark counter culture, Bartsch is practically a New York institution: since moving to the city in 1981, she’s opened innovative fashion stores, raised $2.5 million for AIDS advocacy and hosted too many wild disco parties to count. Running a series of legendary nights in the 80s and 90s, first at Savage, and later at the Copacabana, Bartsch’s infectious energy and madcap personal style was a magnet for New York’s new underground: upstarts like Keith Haring and Marc Jacobs mingled with legends like Leigh Bowery and Laurie Anderson, while drag culture was made visible in an art and fashion context for the first time ...

Source: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/articl...

The Creators Project: A New Exhibit Is Reviving NYC Nightlife's Glory Days

Bartsch was one of the driving forces behind the emergence of household British designers like Vivienne Westwood and John Galliano in New York’s fashion scene, introduced through a boutique she operated in SoHo in the 80s. But it’s her role as a nightlife figure during the same period that truly cements her status as an icon. The proclaimed “Queen of the Night” hosted incredible and diverse parties at clubs like Copacabana and created "Love Ball" nights in Harlem that brought vogue to national attention. The persistence of extravagant club culture is due in large part to Bartsch’s groundwork in the past ...

Source: http://thecreatorsproject.vice.com/blog/a-...

Gayletter: Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch

If I was asked to describe Susanne Bartsch in one word it would be “enduring.” The woman has been on the New York nightlife scene longer than I’ve been alive. And she is still killing it. If this show (featuring 100’s of her outfits from the 1980’s to today) is anything to go by Susanne Bartsch has a wardrobe the size of the World Trade Center, and nothing in there is remotely boring. The show’s curator Valerie Steele had this to say about Susanne’s closet to the website Racked: “In the 80s and early 90s, there was a lot of this kind of excess of fashion, but it sort of disappeared. But Susanne is still waving the freak flag for that sort of thing, and I think a lot of people miss that...It’s a nice moment to remind people that there’s other aspects of fashion.” Yesss honey, it’s time the kids of NYC stepped up their game. Life’s too short to be dressed in all black, find some feathers and a bejeweled corset and a lime green alien jumpsuit and have some fun. It’s fashion, not brain surgery. Fashion Underground is on now until Dec 5th at FIT. Don’t miss it darrrrrrling!

Source: http://gayletter.com/event/fashion-undergr...

Tages Anzeiger: New Yorks Schweizer Partykönigin

Kleider aus Puppenköpfen, schwarze Perücken mit Zöpfen bis zum Boden, goldglänzende Stiefel und ausladende weisse Engelsflügel: Die Outfits von Susanne Bartsch können gar nicht schrill genug sein.

Auch noch auf der vollsten Tanzfläche im dunkelsten Club muss sie damit auffallen, herausstechen und fotografiert werden können, das gehört zu ihrem Job. Bartsch ist Partyveranstalterin und hat sich mit ihren Sausen in New York zur Legende hochgefeiert ...

Source: http://www.tagesanzeiger.ch/kultur/new-yor...

NY Art Beat: Bartschland Comes to FIT

Most exhibition openings don’t end up in Page Six. Valerie Steele’s Museum at FIT did just that when her door staff turned away Bette Midler from an opening night crowd that brought together Calvin Klein, Norma Kamali, Amanda Lepore, and RuPaul. Apparently the event was at capacity, as several Fashion Week events were, although world-famous singers usually don’t have a problem making it in ...

Source: http://www.nyartbeat.com/nyablog/2015/09/b...